Picking the right fabric for sewing garments on the bias

As the Lilly Bias is about to move into our shop upcoming week and some of you are already waiting to start sewing, let's talk a little about suitable fabrics for bias-cut garments.

What do I need to watch out for to make sure the fabric is suitable for sewing bias-cut garments? That's the big question on our minds today. And to spoiler, the answer is not that complicated.

Unfortunately, not every fabric offers the desired stretch ability that a bias-cut garment needs for a good fit. To make sure you don't invest in something unsuitable, here are the key facts you should know before you head to the fabric store. As always, because we love sustainability: Maybe the right fabric can already be found in your fabric collection, don't forget to have a look.

Which fabrics are generally suitable for sewing on the bias?

As you want to achieve a beautiful silhouette and most designs with cut on bias create a feminine, body-hugging shape, you should always opt for fabrics that offer a nice, flowing drape. This could be a luxurious silk satin, but a pretty printed viscose or washed linen works just as fine. Fabrics with a lot of structure and body generally do not create satisfying results as they do not adapt to the bodys shape.

Silk satin finished on the bias

How can I tell if the fabric has good stretch?

If you pull the fabric at a 45° angle to the grainline and it stretches visibly, the fabric is suitable. Make sure you choose a fabric that stretches evenly in both directions at a 45° angle so that you don't have any problems with the fabric draping differently depending on how the pattern piece was cut and sewn.

Can I use fabrics with spandex/elastane?

Definitely yes, but make sure they are bi-stretch fabrics. Bi-stretch is equally stretchable both with the grain and cross grain. This is important to make sure that the fabric drapes in the same way.

If you are interested in these little inputs about my patterns, follow me on Instagram and YouTube to not miss out on my sewing tips and tricks.